Many years ago, when I was about 16 and significantly less tired, I went to Salzburg. I remember very little about it, which either says a lot about teenage me or very little about Salzburg. Either way, until this week, that had been my entire Austrian experience.
Fast forward to now: Vienna. But not in a leisurely, “let’s sip coffee and ponder art” kind of way. No! I was presenting at a conference at the University of Music and Performing Arts, which meant four out of five days were firmly in work mode. That left me with one precious day to “do Vienna.” No pressure.
Let’s begin with logistics (because nothing says holiday joy like public transport planning).
I bought a Vienna welcome card for €55.90, including the airport add-on. This turned out to be an excellent decision, mainly because I spent half my life on the U-Bahn going back and forth across the city. The airport add-on alone is worth it, a return trip on the City Train, which normally costs €12–14 each way. Bargain. It also gives you discounts into museums etc, but I didn’t have the time to use those, next time!
If you are unsure about airport transfer, let me reassure you that the U-Bahn in Venice is unlike any London Underground. There are around 9 lines, all colour coded and really easy to follow and use. Alternative transport is the bus, but I can’t comment on the ease of that from the airport or taxi, but why bother when the city train and then the U-bahn is so efficent (and clean!). In the city there is also the tram. I found that google maps directions worked an absolute treat to figure out my trips.
From my ‘one-day’ sightseeing experience, Vienna is far more than that. I began my morning by choosing a walk that took me from Stephansplatz, round past Rathausplatz via Judanplatz, with stops for coffee (of course and a pain suisse!), ending up at Nachsmarkt. It took about an hour at a relaxed pace, early-ish on an April morning, but here’s the thing: unless you’re accompanied by a knowledgeable Viennese friend (or have secretly downloaded an entire history podcast), you’re basically just… walking past things. Beautiful things, yes, but still, context helps.
So I pivoted.
I decided to get the Hop-on-Hop-off bus and do the same route (red) with a guide. There are about four different routes you can do here, one takes you up into the hills, another to the Danube tower. I was pressed for time, so the red route, around an hour in total, took me to the main central city sights.
There are so many museums and galleries in Vienna that I almost felt personally attacked by how little I managed to see. I already know I want to come back just to do those properly. Also on the list: the Danube Tower and a river trip for a different perspective. And Bratislava is only 65km away, so really, it would be irresponsible not to combine countries next time.
I also wandered through Neubaugasse, Vienna’s “hip” independent shopping district. Lots of quirky shops, perfect for unique gifts. Did I buy anything exciting? No. Just a hat, because I spectacularly underestimated how cold it gets in the shade in early April in northern Europe.
In my defence, it’s not like I have years of experience living in a cold climate… oh wait.
Now, the hotel.
I stayed in the Ruby Marie Hotel just off Mariahilfer StraBe. The hotel itself… is quirky. It’s built inside an old shopping mall, which means some rooms, like mine, look out onto what can only be described as a “courtyard of mild despair,” surrounded by other identical windows. Imagine a square toilet roll, and you’re not far off.
That said, the room was a good size, with a large walk-in shower and separate WC, very civilised.
However, for a week-long stay, a couple of things tested my patience:
Firstly, the duvet situation. Apparently, it’s standard here to have two single duvets on a double bed. As a solo traveller, I was given one duvet and one pillow. Minimalist chic? Perhaps. Mildly annoying? Definitely. To make matters worse, the duvet had clearly been over-washed to the point where all the filling had migrated to the corners, leaving the middle as effective as a sheet. I was… not warm.
Secondly: no fridge. For an entire week. No way to keep water cool, let alone anything else. The hotel café offers breakfast, but at prices that suggest it might include a small share in the business. Even the takeaway option was pricey compared to nearby alternatives. A fridge would have gone a long way.
That said, it’s not all doom and duvet despair.
There’s a lovely terrace (which must be amazing in summer), a great bar (serving one of the best Sauvignons I’ve ever had), a yoga room, a meeting space with free tea and coffee (which I tragically only discovered two days in), and even a cinema.
Although, I will say: the films during my stay leaned heavily into the dark/horror genre. Combined with dimly lit corridors and my windowless floor, I did occasionally feel like I was starring in my own low-budget remake of Psycho. Character building, I suppose?
Maybe I’m just not cool enough anymore to fully embrace the “vibe.” Or maybe I just like natural light.
I would absolutely recommend at least a long weekend in Vienna. It’s an easy two-hour flight with BA from Heathrow, and there’s so much to see, eat, and drink.
I don’t often say this, I usually feel like I’ve “done” a place, but Vienna? I’ve barely scratched the surface.
And next time, I’m bringing a better duvet strategy.
